Funny Shirts in Costa Rica

I would make this blog about funny t-shirts in Costa Rica if I had the temerity to snap photos of strangers in the street. Costa Ricans often wear t-shirts with English writing on them, ones they purchase from the local Ropa Americana store (which is a store that carries second-hand clothes from the United States). Often the locals don't understand what's on the t-shirts. Case in point, I saw an older (white) man strolling down a main walkway in San José donning a shirt that read:

"Look out: Here comes one pissed off black woman"

You might not find gems like this every day in Costa Rica, but the prevalence of North American clothing mixed with the subtleties of a foreign language make situations like these all but inevitable. If you spend enough time in Costa Rica, you're bound to get a few chuckles here and there from ironic clothing.

It's quite common to see people wearing old sports t-shirts and jerseys for teams that are explicitly for the opposite sex of the person wearing it. You might also see someone wearing a humorous t-shirt that says, "Smooth Operator" or "Why am I so thirsty if I drank so much last night"? In most of these occasions when I have known the person wearing the t-shirt, the t-shirt owner did not fully understand the message and, in many cases, would not have purchased the t-shirt having known what it meant.

If you have any ironic t-shirt stories from Costa Rica or elsewhere, please share in the comments.

Word of the Day: Dialecto

Dialecto is 'dialect' in Spanish, but in the rural areas of Costa Rica you might hear people referring to dialect as a language completely different from Spanish. In my area of Guatuso, people would often explain to me that the indigenous Maleku Indians spoke a "dialect". The textbook understanding of the word would make it seem as if Maleku were a dialect of Spanish. What they mean to say is that it isn't Spanish at all. (A more pessimistic view may have the locals interpreting the Maleku language as somehow undeserving of the language status, which could be accurate for some.) It threw me off a bit the first time I heard someone say it, but I learn to tune it out when people continued to say use dialecto in this way.

Word of the Day: Tortillera

Tortillera is Costa Rican slang for 'lesbian'. Because of the connotation of the word, people usually avoid using it to describe a woman who makes tortillas.

It isn't widely considered offensive in Costa Rica, although perhaps it should. Reason being: the words 'playo' and 'tortillera' (used for 'gay' and 'lesbian', respectively) are so commonplace in Costa Rican language that they are often used generically for homosexual people. As a result, people don't necessarily mean harm when they use the terms. However, homosexuality isn't always seen in a positive light in what is a strongly Christian (Catholic, and increasingly Evangelical) country, so playo and tortillera are often used in a negative fashion.

With that said, people will figure out for themselves what is offensive and what isn't. I have met gay people in Costa Rica who use the words playo and tortillera in a joking manner. Others might not find it so funny, so I don't recommend using these words.

Word of the Day: Diario

In Costa Rica diario most often means the staple goods (mostly groceries) that one buys to sustain the family. The diario in Costa Rica consists mainly of rice and beans, and whatever fat the family uses to fry its food. (Some families use vegetable oil, but many still use the highly saturated palm fat called manteca.) These foods are often accompanied by cabbage, tomatoes, meat, and cans of tuna. In rural areas, fruits--as well as certain vegetables like yuca, chayote, corn, and elote--are often gathered/harvested locally for consumption. 

The ideas of the canasta básica--which is the basic basket of consumer goods that helps track consumer prices and quantify poverty levels--and the diario are quite closely related. In fact, you could say that the canasta básica seeks to reflect the diario of the average middle- or lower-middle-class Costa Rican family. However, these terms are by no means interchangeable. Canasta básica is an economic  (and often political) term employed by those concerned with macroeconomic issues as they relate to poverty. Diario, on the other hand, is what people use in their everyday lives in reference to their essential periodic purchases.

Word of the Day: "hoy en ocho"

This put me through a loop during my first few months in Costa Rica. Whenever I wanted to schedule a meeting for a week from whatever day it was, I'd say "reunámosnos el próximo lunes ". Essentially, when it was Monday I would say "let's meet next Monday". To further clarify I would sometimes say "de hoy en siete días".

Then I watched the earth burst into flames right before me.

Costa Ricans will almost always project a week into the future by saying "de hoy en ocho". When I said "from today in seven days" they thought I was confused because I should have in fact said 'eight'. Apparently I was confused, because to me counting a full week into the future is counting the lapse of seven full days--not eight.

However, Costa Ricans will count the current day in their tally. If it's Tuesday and you want to meet the following Tuesday, you need to tell a Costa Rican "de hoy en ocho". Then, if you want to meet not the following Tuesday but the one after that, you have to say (hold on to your hat) "de hoy en quince".

Yeah, I know, fifteen is neither a multiple of seven nor eight. What Costa Ricans do is count the current day in their calculation for the first week. Then, the last day in that first week is counted, but it won't be counted a second time for the second week tally.

For example, if it's the first of the month your first full week ends on the eighth. That's eight full days, counting the first. Then, your second full week ends on the fifteenth, but for that week you're only counting days 9-15--seven days in total--because you have already counted the eighth day in your first week.

So, when projecting future engagements the first week is always eight days, and then each subseqeuent week adds another seven days. This might seem kind of counter-intuitive to you, but the system works quite well once you get it down.

Word of the Day: Matricidio

Matricidio, slang for matrimonio (matrimony, marriage), playfully and melodramatically points out that your life ends once you get married.

Word of the Day: Guaro

Guaro is Costa Rican Spanish for a cane alcohol that's quite popular in the country. Cacique is the national brand and can be found at any local pulpería (rural general store) or supermarket. It is a relatively weak 70 proof and goes down smoothly without a very noticeable taste. In other Spanish-speaking countries similar products are called aguardiente. It is also very similar to the Brazilian cachaça that goes into its famous caipirinha drinks.

Guaro can also be synonymous with alcohol. 'Tomar guaro' as an expression usually implies drinking alcohol, regardless of the variety. Since my name is Tomás, many Costa Ricans would jokingly ask me "Tomás guaro"? Brilliant.

Word of the Day: Machetazo

A machetazo is a blow landed with a machete. In rural areas of Costa Rica fights that break out in the local cantinas sometimes--but not often--involve machetes. A friend of mine who used to live in a remote part of Los Chiles once had to do a turnakit on a guy's arm because it was bleeding after being almost completely severed by a machetazo. Also, when I was living near Guatuso, a man was walking late at night through the town's center and killed--by machetazos--a kid who was allegedly among a group of teenagers who were harrassing the man (a Nicaraguan) with insulting (and racist/nationalist) language.

Keep in mind that these examples of violence in Costa Rica--a very peaceful country--are purely anecdotal and brought up simply to illustrate the meaning and relevance of the vocabulary. Also, these altercations almost always involve lots of alcohol and beligerence, so you don't have to worry about it if you're not looking for trouble.

Word of the Day: Vacilón

Vacilón is a very common Costa Rican word for 'fun'. The verb vacilar is also very common, which most often means 'to kid' (transitive as 'to kid someone' or intransitive as 'to kid around'). Sometimes vacilar is used in the context of a man or woman "playing" someone of the opposite sex. This might involve showing interest in someone for some purpose (often sex), without actually having true feelings or intentions.

In formal Spanish vacilar has the same meaning that 'to vacillate' does in English. If you try to convey this meaning with vacilar you will likely get confused looks from ticos.

Word of the Day: Rancho

Rancho in Costa Rica is a thatched roof enclosure, often in the shape of a cone. The frame is most often made of wood. Ranchos are typically roadside bars/restaurants in rural areas; however, a person of considerable economic means may have a rancho to accompany his home (like the one in the picture). In such a case, a rancho is the equivalent of a gazebo you'd find in some yards in the US. In order to prolong the waterproof seal formed by the grass roof, many ranchos are lined with plastic from the inside.

Word of the Day: Dormilón

Dormilón is a Costa Rican word that means "sleepy head", as in someone who likes to sleep, sleeps too much, or tends to sleep in. This can be dormilona for a woman, which is also a very common weed throughout Costa Rica. It's pretty neat because its leaves appear to shrivel up upon touching them. This defense mechanism--along with its sharp spines--protects it from ruminant animals and makes it a very successful species.

Word of the Day: Yodo

Yodo is the Spanish word for 'iodine', but in Costa Rica it's also slang for 'coffee' because of both liquids' deep, dark color.

Pura Birra,

Tom

Word of the Day: Biodigestor

This isn't an exclusively Costa Rican word, but it's relevant to this blog because biodigesters are quite common in rural areas in Costa Rica and I myself managed a biogas project in Santa Fe de Guatuso, a small town of 250 people in the "Zona Norte" countryside.

A biodigestor is any manmade contraption that uses the anaerobic (withou the presence of oxygen) decomposition of organic materials to make biogas, which is largely methane, for either cooking, heating, or electricity. In layman's terms, un biodigestor takes poop and turns it into gas.

If you're feeling extra ambitious, check out the biogas project that the Santa Fe women executed or the biodigester design they used.

¡Pura Vida!

Word of the Day: Viejo Verde

Viejo verde is a common label for a man who chases younger women. ('Viejo' of course meaning old, and 'verde' meaning 'green' or--in this case--'young'.) To be fair, a woman can also be a vieja verde, but it is much more typical for the man to be older in a relationship. It is not uncommon for a 30-year-old man to date, and eventually marry, a 20-year-old woman. However, if the age difference becomes much more exaggerated than this, people will call the man a viejo verde, the equivalent of "cradle-robber" in American English. This label of viejo verde is also valid when an older man's admiration of a young woman is verbalized but not necessarily acted on. I know many old Costa Ricans who would say sexually suggestive things about young women, who were then gently called viejo verde. 

Another way to say viejo verde in Costa Rica is sátiro.

Costa Rican Spanish Word of the Day: Gallina de Palo

A common Costa Rican nickname for the iguana is gallina de palo, essentially meaning "chicken of the tree". (The resemblance to the popular brand of tuna in the US is a mere coincidence.) Actually, gallina specifically means 'hen' and 'palo' most formally means 'stick'. However, Costa Ricans will commonly use the word 'palo' whenever talking about a tree. When I first arrived in Costa Rica, I was taken on a walk in the woods and was met with some great confusion when someone was trying to point out a "stick" about 50 feet off the ground. The "stick" turned out to be a pretty big one, firmly planted into the ground!

Anyway, they call the iguana gallina de palo because it tastes a lot like chicken. Yum!

Todavía en la lucha,

Tom